1 Confit garlic £7.50
1 Tomato salad £9
1 Pork chop £23
1 Cod £21
1 Small steak tartare £9
1 Summer pudding £8
1 Half a dozen madeleines £4.50
4 French House lagers £12
Chef Luke Selby’s thinly sliced squid ramen in earthy mushroom broth is an umami dream
Ramen and dashi is the ultimate comfort food combination. As a pair they marry two of my favourite memories from the time I spent working and living in Japan, where I would explore the many ramen masters of Tokyo. This particular dish is a favourite of mine, as it appeared on the opening menu at Evelyn’s Table.
The deep, rich, earthy umami flavour of the mushroom dashi is the perfect complement for the sweet flavour and soft textures of the squid. I’d recommend you get in touch with Steve Hatt Fishmonger on Essex Road, Islington, to get the freshest squid out there. Ask them to prepare the squid down to tubes, which will ease your prep time when it comes to making the noodles.
1kg button mushrooms, sliced
20ml dark soy sauce
15g katsuobushi flakes
4 whole squid, cleaned into tubes
50g shimeji mushrooms
50g white wine vinegar
1 bunch of spring onions, sliced thinly
20g sesame oil
Cleaned squid noodles
1. To make the mushroom dashi, place the sliced button mushrooms, 6g of salt, soy sauce, 500ml of water and kombu into a large flat-bottomed pan with a tight-fitting lid and bring to the boil. Simmer on the lowest heat for 20 minutes and pass through a sieve, then add the katsuobushi flakes. Leave to infuse for 10 minutes and pass through a fine sieve.
2. To make the squid noodles, make sure each squid is properly cleaned, then cut each open into a sheet and slice as thinly as you can into strips.
3. For the pickled mushrooms, place the shimeji mushrooms, white wine vinegar, 20ml of water, 4g of salt and sugar in a pan and bring to the boil. Once boiled, leave off the heat to infuse for 10 minutes.
4. Get a large wok smoking hot and cook the squid with the remainder of the salt and sesame oil for about 30 seconds.
5. Finally, bring the mushroom dashi to the boil and serve in a ramen bowl with the squid noodles, pickled shimeji mushrooms and sliced spring onion.