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DINE AND DASH

Jimi Famurewa delights in the takeaway walking lunch — one of the ways we can keep eating out right now while exploring our remarkable city

When I was a young, skint magazine writer — unwittingly living through that glittering late-00s epoch when partying hadn’t been summarily banned by a deadly virus — my Friday nights out would generally all start in the same way. Which is to say, before there was anything else, there was almost always a hurriedly eaten chip butty.

It was not a conscious ritual, I don’t think. At least not at first. But soon, with almost superstitious regularity, I’d find myself texting the same half-lie to friends waiting in a pub (‘Still at work. Be more like 6.30’), drifting into the batter-scented warmth of somewhere like The Fryer’s Delight in Holborn, and then leaving with a shovelled heap of hot, golden chips in a vinegar-soaked bun, eating as I went and glorying in the comforting beigeness of it.

"a hustling, cheat-code thrill came from bolting some momentary joy on to something as innocuous as walking"

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"I have been thinking wistfully about those ambulant, chip-shop dinners; thinking about the jolting pleasure of kerbside burritos, crinkly churros to be savoured in the open air"

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"maybe the best temporary function of this column would be to extol the virtues of what we might call a walking lunch"

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"Flor’s deservedly hyped ASAP Pizza spin-off is back in Borough with the requisite impeccable sourcing and deeply flavourful sourdough crusts"

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"sandwiches from Dom’s Subs on Hackney Road are messy, texturally inventive two-handers deserving of a reverent moment or two on Regent’s Canal"

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